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French Catalonia
Perpignan and its Idyllic Landscape
I hesitated between titling this article "Muscatland" or "French Catalonia". In the wine industry, Muscat reigns as king in this region, so Muscatland was my first pick. However, its Catalonian influence cannot be denied. So here it is: "French Catalonia", a region known as much for its idyllic landscape as for its terrific Muscats.
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Divided between France and Spain, Catalonia is well known both for its wines and for the enormous number of tourists it welcomes during the summer months.The French side of this region is well known for its Muscats, while the Spanish side is renowned for its sparkling wines. Because I have spent most of my time in this diverse region north of the border with Spain, I'll be focusing on Muscats here.
Our first stop on this trip was Perpignan. Coming from Paris, it should take you four to five hours aboard a TGV - un train a grande vitesse (or fast train) - or one hour by aircraft. If you are coming from the United States, it might be cheaper and faster to flight to Barcelona, Spain and rent a car. You will have to drive for one hour and half before reaching Perpignan, but you'll avoid the hassle of a layover and additional travel. The topography of the region is truly spectacular. Perpignan is surrounded by the Pyrenee Mountains to the north, the south and the west, and by the Mediterranean Sea to the east. The highest peak, called ''Le Canigou'', culminates at 9137 feet. If you look south from Perpignan, the mountain range ''Les Albères'' is the geographical border between France and Spain. The climate is, of course, Mediterranean, which means that it is very dry with a short rainy season, and is suitable for the growth of vine grapes. 
Grand Castillet - Perpignan
Les Albères - Pyrenees Mountains
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Les Albères - Pyrenees Mountains
If you walk through Perpignan, you will see many examples of Catalan culture. Flags and images of the Catalan donkey are scattered all across the city. Another symbol of the region is the USAP, or the Union Sportive Arlequins Perpignan-Roussillon. Indeed, Perpignan's rugby club has been the standard bearer of the region as the soccer club FC Barcelona is for the Spanish side. Perpignan also overflows with history. Contemporary and medieval art can be seen all over the city. The "Grand Castillet", which is a historical city gate, St John’s Cathedral, and "Campo Santo", a cloister-cemetery, are some places you must see. Make sure to stop at Via del Vi (43 bis Av. Leclerc - 66000 Perpignan) where the owners Romain, a previous sommelier at l'Elysee (the French Presidential Palace), and his wife built their menu around a small selection of local wines and dishes. This charming and cozy wine bar has become a key spot to enjoy the Perpignan nightlife.
Our trip continued out of the city to its neighboring vineyards. The Roussillon region has a couple of well know appellations. For dry wines, the most famous AOPs (Appellation d'origine Protegee) are Collioure, Côtes du Roussillon, and Côtes du Roussillon Villages; the regions for sweet fortified wine are Banyuls and Muscat de Rivesaltes, which together represent 80% of local production. AOP Muscat de Rivesaltes is produced from two grape varieties, the Muscat d’Alexandrie and the Muscat à petits grains. Muscats wines can be appreciated either as an aperitif or a digestif. They pair perfectly with cheeses or go well along with a dessert. Our favorite Muscat was Deux Mille Un (2001) from les Vignobles du Sud Roussillon. This Muscat is aged for ten years in oak, which produces a well balanced and harmonious body with aromas of gingerbread, caramel and honey. It's a real treat for the price - only 29 Euros! Our second favorite sweet wine is AOP Banyuls Grand Cru, an appelation that requires a minimum of 75% Grenache Noir blended with Grenache Gris or Blanc and Carignan. The aging for AOP Banyuls Grand Cru is 30 months minimum in wood. Our favorite wine was L'etoile - Deux Paillé - Hors d'age. This Banuyls Grand Cru truly has an elegant body and aromas of candied apricot and caramel with a finish full of tobacco and mediteranean spices. You should enjoy it as an aperitif or digestif with chocolate or any dessert. Before you head back home make sure to stop at Le Perthus for a shopping session.The last town before Spain acts as a gigantic duty-free shop. Perfume, clothes, tobacco and alcohol, everything is discounted at unstoppable prices. Fadi - |
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Wine geek, certified Sommelier, wine importer, but above all a bon vivant. Born in France, I now live as an expatriate in the United States, I discovered my passion for wine later on in life, most likely to reconnect with my childhood and my country. I prefer wines with character, spices and a pinch of oak (not enough, however, to be unpleasant!). My goal for this blog is to share some of my knowledge about wine regions and some tasting notes. Enjoy and santé!
Fadi |